Seattle Area Starter Fertilizer and Premium 70-30 mix grass seed

/Seattle Area Starter Fertilizer and Premium 70-30 mix grass seed
Seattle Area Starter Fertilizer and Premium 70-30 mix grass seed2018-10-24T17:36:01-07:00

WHAT IS A STARTER FERTILIZER?

Starter fertilizers encourage the development of germinating seedlings by providing Nitrogen, Phosphate, and Potassium for healthier new lawn growth.

STARTER FERTILIZER

The starter fertilizer I use is a 20 14 14 (Nitrogen, Phosphate, Potassium) based Duration 45, which is ideal for lawn applications where six to eight weeks of nutrition is needed, and is 60% controlled slow release. It promotes deep root growth, while limiting turf growth. My starter fertilizer will not stain cement as most fertilizers do. The standard fertilizer I use has no herbicide, insecticide, or fungicide that will give your lawn good color without making it grow too fast.
I have never had a problem in over 11 years of proud use.

WHY USE THIS 20 14 14 STARTER FERTILIZER?

This fertilizer will give your lawn a beautiful, lush, dark green color for 45 days. Typical starter fertilizers only last 30 days. This slow released technology of this product is called duration. DURATION CR. This controlled-release fertilizer relies on a patented and durable polymer-coated technology to gradually and efficiently release nutrients. The result is the consistent metering of nutrition that lasts for weeks. This is the gold standard of starter fertilizers and cannot be found in nurseries or hardware stores.

HOW IT WORKS

  • Within a week of application, soil moisture penetrates the polymer coating through osmosis.
  • Over time the dissolved nutrients slowly release through diffusion, in response to temperature and coating thickness.
  • Encapsulated nutrients are dissolved, but not released.
  • After the complete release of nutrients, the polymer coating eventually decomposes by microbial activity into naturally occurring elements.

BENEFITS

  • Advanced polymer-coated technology for dependable nutrient release
  • Reduced likelihood of feast/famine cycles, growth flushes and burn; healthier turfgrass and plants less susceptible to weed and disease pressures
  • Release regulated by temperature and coating thickness
  • Longevities for up to 45 days
  • Environmentally responsible with low potential for nutrient leaching, denitrification, runoff or volatilization

Grass Seed

The grass seed mix that I use is a 70/30 sun and shade mix. This mix contains 70% blue tag seed chosen for their superior lawn quality over a broad range of environmental conditions and cannot be purchased at nurseries or box stores.

Specifically formulated for the Western Washington customer who requires a superior combination of grasses for maintained lawn areas, this is the type of high quality seed that is used on elite golf course fairways. The 70/30 mix provides a deep green, fine textured turf that is an excellent choice for application anywhere a combination of rapid establishment, disease resistance and traffic tolerance are primary concerns. This particular grass seed has been developed to blend in with the color and texture of all types of Western Washington lawns and sod.

I specialize in providing the very best quality service, product and price for overseeding of Western Washington residential lawns.

Seattle Instructions For Newly Seeded Lawns FAQ2018-08-20T11:15:06-07:00

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New Lawn Care

The success of your new lawn is not entirely under your control, but there is much you can do to improve the final result. All grass seeds require a delicate balance of moisture, seed-to-soil contact, and a temperature range of 60-80 degrees Fahrenheit for the best germination results. Below is an outline of how to care for your new lawn in regard to these three important factors.

Important Factors for Optimal Lawn Growth

  • Moisture

    Depending on the weather, you will need to commit to consistent watering. Pay attention to your daily weather and water accordingly to keep the soil firm yet moist at all times. The first few days and weeks are critical to getting your lawn established. It’s important to water daily. You may need to sprinke your lawn lightly as much as 2-3 times per day if the weather is hot, dry or windy.

  • Seed-To-Soil Contact

    The purpose of the deep first watering is to push more seeds into the holes left in your lawn after lawn aeration. When the seeds are deeper in the soil, they have access to the nutrients needed to begin to sprout. Only the top layer of soil needs to be moistened. Try to avoid disturbing the seed so it can maintain good soil contact.

  • Temperature

    Soil temperatures should be in the correct range (60-80 degrees) for the type of grass. Germination requires a minimum temperature range of 50 degrees. Note: Soil temperatures are usually cooler than air temperature. Once germination begins, if the environment changes significantly (like being too hot and dry), the seed or sprout will die. This is why the time of year is so important for lawn care.

How Much To Water A New Lawn

You will water your new lawn for 30 minutes after seeds are planted. Each session after that should be 10 minutes. Water with a spray nozzle that is adjusted for a soft mist gentle spray or an oscillating sprinkler. A sprinkler can be used as a watering tool as well. For most sprinklers, you will want to water each location for about 20 minutes. Do not water to the point where there are puddles, as this may wash some seed away. It is imperative to not saturate the soil, so focus on frequent yet light watering. After grass sprouts, continue watering daily for 7-10 days. Once the lawn is established (meaning widespread grass heights of over 3-4”) you can just water as needed.

Phases of growing grass

  • 1st Stage: Germinating Seed:

    Grass seed germination is simply what takes place inside the seed to make it sprout when the seed absorbs enough moisture to start growing. The pre-sprout phase is most critical so you must maintain a strong commitment to watering new grass seed.

  • 2nd Stage: Sprout:

    After the seed germinates, you will have visible grass. Continue watering daily for 7-10 days during this stage. The tiny grass plants have small root systems at this time and may die if the top layer of soil dries out. Water makes up 70 to 80% of the weight of our lawn grasses and the clippings alone are nearly 90% water. Seeds will not all sprout at the same time. Seeds will be buried at different depths, which causes them to absorb water differently and dictates how much sunlight they will get. Many seed mixtures will have different characteristics affecting new grass growth and development. It is crucial to keep the surface level of soil constantly moist until all seeds have germinated.

  • 3rd Stage: Establishment:

    Once your seeds have germinated and become established, the root system will be deep and secure enough to be ready for mowing. Only mow your lawn after 21 days at heights of 3-4?. It is important to NOT spray weed control or chemicals for the first few months. Don’t forget to mark your calendar 6 weeks later for a fertilizer reminder!

Good luck with the success of your lawn!

Seattle Lawn Seeding FAQ2016-11-06T11:23:03-07:00
Seeding introduces new, healthier, more vibrant grass seedlings to your existing lawn. The healthier your lawn, the more beautiful and more resistant it will be to disease and pests. Best of all, the overall vigor and health of your lawn enhances the value of your property.

When buying seed for your lawn, buy from a reputable and knowledgeable representative. Don’t just buy any brand. Seed distributors have to supply the big box stores where they market their lower quality seed. This is why I purchase my seed by the ton, from a seed broker I have known for over 10 years. My seed cannot be purchased at nurseries or box stores. I use only seed that local golf courses use on their fairways. A fairway grass is a Class C turf which most closely resembles your home lawn. A putting green is an example of a Class A turf. For home lawns I prefer to use a 70/30 seeding mix.

Fescue grass also requires more water longer than perennial rye grass in order to become established. You need to water a little longer than you think so the secondary grasses can become established. Also note that you don’t want to let the perennial rye grass grow above 5 inches tall before first cut or it will shade out your fescues.

A blend is a mixture of several different varieties of the same seed. An example would be a three-way perennial rye grass, similar in concept to like-blended whiskies.
Different types of seed are mixed together, such as perennial rye grass and fescue. This provides the advantage of mixing sun and shade grasses and disease with pest resistance.
Many things are considered when seed is mixed or blended:

  • the color of the grass at maturity
  • the fineness of the blade and uniformity
  • how the grass will be maintained, such as cutting and fertilization
  • disease and susceptibility to pests
Cheap seed is no bargain. It quite often contains other non-desirable grasses by accident or on purpose. At the box stores I now see a change in marketing techniques by reputable seed producers. They market seed with their nationally-known name but it is aimed at the cheapest purchaser. These seeds are marketed using descriptions like “contractors’ mix” or “extremely fast establishing” or “quick green”. The frugal shopper buys this seed, gets it home, applies it, and it looks great. But when the seed finally matures, it’s usually wide-bladed and ugly and “goes to seed” all the time. The frugal shopper then sees the ugly lawn and by then has forgotten what he put on last year, so goes back and buys a cheap, low-quality product again.
Higher quality seed for Western Washington is grown in Oregon in the Willamette Valley. This seed is usually endophyte-enhanced with a fungus that discourages some chewing insect pests and increases your lawn’s stress resistance. Seed is professionally mixed or blended for a reason. If only one super seed was used and it became susceptible to a pest or disease, you would lose your whole lawn. Most seed is purchased at the big box stores and based on one criterion: price. Most homeowners do not take purity and quality into consideration.
Many homeowners decide to cover their seed with peat moss. If you use peat moss, I strongly recommend renting a peat moss roller from a rental yard. Not to be confused with a drum you put water in for site compaction, a peat moss roller is light and easy to transport. Peat moss roller rental is about $15 a day. The roller itself is made of expanded diamond-cut metal which has many openings to equally distribute the peat moss. The quality of this is unattainable by hand spreading. Do not put peat moss on too thick or it will interlock and prevent the seed from growing through it.
Failure can be caused by: poor germinating temperatures, a weed and feed or chemical being applied either before or after seeding, lack of watering, overwatering, birds and other animals feeding on the seeds, contaminated soil, chemicals, diesel fuel and/or paint thinners.
Water your lawn daily, lightly and frequently, depending on the temperature. If possible, mow your lawn first before aeration.
Kentucky Bluegrass does not live longer than one year here in Western Washington. Winters are not cold enough for the grass to go into dormancy; disease will also kill it.
No. Another mistake many people make is to rototill an existing lawn and then try to grade it. Rototilling creates a huge, tangled mess of dirt clods and grass. Then when you rototill your new topsoil into the mess that’s left, it takes hours to get it graded and there’s always a chunk of your old lawn on top. In addition, if you do get it graded, that old sod will be decomposing and your newly established yard will end up with many bumps and dips. Use a sod cutter first, then the rototiller. With rototilling you never know what a previous owner has buried, so make a place to put unwanted dug up items.
Sodding properties over 4,000 square feet gets expensive. Many landscape designers now prefer hydroseeding for larger properties. You have to water more in the beginning, but what you save in labor and cost can be spent on proper site preparation.
When comparing hydroseeding estimates, please consider the following criteria. All bids are not equal. More is to be considered than just cost per square foot. Ask about:

  • the hydro mulch to be used
  • seed quality and fertilizer
  • if the soil to be hydroseeded is on a slope, then is a tackifying agent needed to prevent soil from washing away?
  • do they have experience working on residential lawns?
  • what do they recommend for weed control?
Yes because you can control exactly the amount of seed and type of mulch to be applied.
Use quality seed, fertilizer, the right mix in the tank, and irrigation.
In the Spring the birds have so much other food to eat they typically don?t eat many, if any, seeds.
Seattle Lawn Fertilizer FAQ2016-11-06T16:53:28-07:00
Fall is the most important time of the year to feed and fertilize your lawn. Your lawn stores its energy in the roots of the grass and in the springtime when your lawn needs to grow, your grass calls on these reserves. In fall, even after the lawn has stopped growing, deep root growth is still occurring and does so for several weeks.
A higher quality fertilizer that controls the release of nitrogen through temperature, water or microbial activity; a technique that “spoon-feeds” your lawn and prevents growth surges. The fertilizer that I use is a 60% slow-release fertilizer which is high in phosphorous; promoting deep root growth and is of a higher quality.
Slow release fertilizer prevents your lawn from growing too fast during the rainy season so that you can cut it on your own schedule.
Quick release fertilizer makes nutrients immediately available to your lawn and is generally of short duration.
No. If you have a very weedy lawn, it could be 20% weeds. So if you apply weed and feed, 80% is wasted on a healthy lawn. Of the weeds, many are monocots and weed and feed only kills dicots (broadleaf). For herbicides, selective spot spraying is best. Because of kids, pets and the environment, homeowners are becoming more receptive to taking care of their landscapes with a less toxic approach, including organics. You have to set realistic expectations and figure out how to achieve this. Having a healthy, thick, vigorously growing lawn is the best deterrent to prevent weed infestation and crane fly damage.
I like organic fertilizers that are high in mineral content and have been digested by an animal that is not hormone fed.
Yes, but make sure the synthetic fertilizers that you are using are 50% slow release or more and don’t have herbicides, insecticides or fungicides.
  • The US is the second largest producer and consumer of fertilizer in the world after China, in both categories.
  • The fertilizer manufacturing industry employs 33,000 jobs in the United States.
  • Despite the Pacific Northwest’s rainy reputation, the average annual rainfall is just below 40 inches, which is even less than New York City!
Wait 6 weeks after starter fertilizer to apply the regular fertilizer. Go to a nursery and ask for organic fertilizer; or you can buy 50lb bags from me for $60/bag. You should not apply weed & feed to new seedlings.
Weed control cannot be used around new seedlings or the seeds will not germinate.
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