Seattle Area Lawn Full Meal Deal

Home/Seattle Area Lawn Full Meal Deal
Seattle Area Lawn Full Meal Deal2017-10-07T18:06:59-07:00


What is a Full Meal Deal?

A Full Meal Deal is special treatment for lawns in need of more than just maintenance, but repair. It includes Thatching, Aerating, Overseeding with extra seed and Starter Fertilizer (Organic by request for $20).


  • Removes undesirable old grass and moss so new stronger see can be planted.
  • With thatch removed, air, water, nutrients, herbicides and pesticides can do their job more efficiently.
  • Turf becomes healthier and more resistant to insect damage and disease.


  • Promotes deep vigorous root growth.
  • Provides Individual germinating chambers for new seedlings.
  • Improves air to the roots and promotes deeper root growth
  • Breaks up hard clay soil
  • Saves on your watering bill
  • Stimulates beneficial microorganisms
  • Helps the seed germinate and become established
  • Creates a lush, thick, healthy lawn


  • Spring is a great time for overseeding.
  • I use only the highest-quality Golf Course Fairway Grass Seed.
  • Overseeding pays off with a thicker, more vibrant and healthy lawn.
  • Excellent choice for rapid establishment, disease resistance and traffic tolerance.


  • We use a special 60% slow release Starter.
  • Nourishes and protects your new seedlings and provides excellent lawn color throughout the season.
  • Promotes deep root growth with good color, while limiting turf growth.
  • Will not stain cement as most fertilizers do.
  • No herbicides, insecticides, or fungicides so it is not harmful to animals.
  • Will give your lawn good color without making it grow too fast.

Benefits of a Full Meal Deal

A Lawn Tune-up is recommended for maintenance, whereas the Full Meal Deal is recommended for repair and renovation. By thatching before aerating a lawn, it removes the moss and dead grass making room for newer stronger seedlings.

Picture of just-aerated lawn

Picture of just-aerated lawn

Organic Full Meal Deal Before and After-View Ridge Seattle

Organic Full Meal Deal Before and After-View Ridge Seattle

Seattle Lawn Aerating FAQ2017-03-24T10:40:09-07:00
Aeration is the process of mechanically removing cores of turf to improve the flow of air, water and nutrients in dense, compacted soil.
Aerating will allow your grass to grow healthier, greener and thicker. It will also help with drainage and allow air and water to reach the roots of your lawn.
I use a core aerator that extracts plugs of soil from your lawn. The plugs can be up to 2-3/4 inches long, depending on how compact your soil is.
Spring and fall are generally the best times of year to aerate your lawn. These are the seasons when your lawn is actively growing and you can overseed immediately afterwards. Many people also aerate in July to prevent localized dry spots and improve irrigation.
By aerating late spring you can encourage the roots to grow deeper, keeping your lawn green longer.
Houses built in the last 20 years have heavier soil compaction because of bulldozers, backhoes and big lifts used in the construction process. Most newly-constructed properties have little or no soil preparation. In new construction, the lawn is graded (all soil scraped and taken away) then covered again with 1 or 2 inches of soil. If you live on a property like this, add compost annually and aerate your lawn twice a year, then rake fine compost into the aeration holes. Over time this will change your soil profile.
Because clay soil is a very fine particle with very small pore spaces, air and water cannot move well through soil, which encourages poor root growth.
Aerating produces holes that act as a seed bed which helps to shelter the seed and encourages their germination.
On lawns with compacted soils or under renovation, it is beneficial to aerate twice yearly. With sandy soil, once a year aerating is recommended.
No. If you have clay, sand and clay can turn your soil into a concrete substance. I suggest adding an organic material such as a native soil or fine compost.

My aerator is 26″ wide so as long as you have a 27″ of space, we will be able to carefully make it fit.

Worms. Worms come in and provide passage ways for air to enter the soil which helps develope good fungi.

Seattle Lawn Thatching FAQ2017-02-26T13:35:15-08:00
Thatching is the removal of old, tired, grass and moss. The process I use is called “Power Raking.”
Soils with a PH less than 5.5, heavily compacted soil with high clay content, over-watering and over-fertilizing of lawns with poor soil conditions, and frequent shallow watering.
Your lawn will be very spongy, your lawn mower wheels will sink into the grass and the blade scalps the grass.
If you have not thatched your lawn for many years, it’s best to not remove it all at once. Thatching can put your lawn under heavy stress.
Spring and fall, when the lawn is dry, actively growing and can repair itself quickly. It is best to thatch lighter in spring and heavier in fall when the lawn can rejuvenate itself most easily.
When water has problems getting through the thatch layer and your lawn has become too spongy and is rooting within itself. I have found fall to be the best time of year because fall temperatures are stable and seed germination happens very quickly.
  • Aerate seed and fertilize twice a year. Aeration helps to stimulate microbes that digest thatch the newer grass seed produces less thatch when mature.
  • Use low nitrogen fertilizers with slow release technology.
  • Apply an organic fertilizer twice a year for healthy soil; healthy soil will digest excess thatch.
  • Rather than watering lightly often, deep and infrequent watering will encourage strong root growth while discouraging thatch development.
We do offer raking for an additional fee but we do not offer haul away services.? If you are going to have a heavy thatch job (as will be established in the consultation) we recommend having a large yard waste bin available.
Seattle Lawn Seeding FAQ2016-11-06T11:23:03-08:00
Seeding introduces new, healthier, more vibrant grass seedlings to your existing lawn. The healthier your lawn, the more beautiful and more resistant it will be to disease and pests. Best of all, the overall vigor and health of your lawn enhances the value of your property.

When buying seed for your lawn, buy from a reputable and knowledgeable representative. Don’t just buy any brand. Seed distributors have to supply the big box stores where they market their lower quality seed. This is why I purchase my seed by the ton, from a seed broker I have known for over 10 years. My seed cannot be purchased at nurseries or box stores. I use only seed that local golf courses use on their fairways. A fairway grass is a Class C turf which most closely resembles your home lawn. A putting green is an example of a Class A turf. For home lawns I prefer to use a 70/30 seeding mix.

Fescue grass also requires more water longer than perennial rye grass in order to become established. You need to water a little longer than you think so the secondary grasses can become established. Also note that you don’t want to let the perennial rye grass grow above 5 inches tall before first cut or it will shade out your fescues.

A blend is a mixture of several different varieties of the same seed. An example would be a three-way perennial rye grass, similar in concept to like-blended whiskies.
Different types of seed are mixed together, such as perennial rye grass and fescue. This provides the advantage of mixing sun and shade grasses and disease with pest resistance.
Many things are considered when seed is mixed or blended:

  • the color of the grass at maturity
  • the fineness of the blade and uniformity
  • how the grass will be maintained, such as cutting and fertilization
  • disease and susceptibility to pests
Cheap seed is no bargain. It quite often contains other non-desirable grasses by accident or on purpose. At the box stores I now see a change in marketing techniques by reputable seed producers. They market seed with their nationally-known name but it is aimed at the cheapest purchaser. These seeds are marketed using descriptions like “contractors’ mix” or “extremely fast establishing” or “quick green”. The frugal shopper buys this seed, gets it home, applies it, and it looks great. But when the seed finally matures, it’s usually wide-bladed and ugly and “goes to seed” all the time. The frugal shopper then sees the ugly lawn and by then has forgotten what he put on last year, so goes back and buys a cheap, low-quality product again.
Higher quality seed for Western Washington is grown in Oregon in the Willamette Valley. This seed is usually endophyte-enhanced with a fungus that discourages some chewing insect pests and increases your lawn’s stress resistance. Seed is professionally mixed or blended for a reason. If only one super seed was used and it became susceptible to a pest or disease, you would lose your whole lawn. Most seed is purchased at the big box stores and based on one criterion: price. Most homeowners do not take purity and quality into consideration.
Many homeowners decide to cover their seed with peat moss. If you use peat moss, I strongly recommend renting a peat moss roller from a rental yard. Not to be confused with a drum you put water in for site compaction, a peat moss roller is light and easy to transport. Peat moss roller rental is about $15 a day. The roller itself is made of expanded diamond-cut metal which has many openings to equally distribute the peat moss. The quality of this is unattainable by hand spreading. Do not put peat moss on too thick or it will interlock and prevent the seed from growing through it.
Failure can be caused by: poor germinating temperatures, a weed and feed or chemical being applied either before or after seeding, lack of watering, overwatering, birds and other animals feeding on the seeds, contaminated soil, chemicals, diesel fuel and/or paint thinners.
Water your lawn daily, lightly and frequently, depending on the temperature. If possible, mow your lawn first before aeration.
Kentucky Bluegrass does not live longer than one year here in Western Washington. Winters are not cold enough for the grass to go into dormancy; disease will also kill it.
No. Another mistake many people make is to rototill an existing lawn and then try to grade it. Rototilling creates a huge, tangled mess of dirt clods and grass. Then when you rototill your new topsoil into the mess that’s left, it takes hours to get it graded and there’s always a chunk of your old lawn on top. In addition, if you do get it graded, that old sod will be decomposing and your newly established yard will end up with many bumps and dips. Use a sod cutter first, then the rototiller. With rototilling you never know what a previous owner has buried, so make a place to put unwanted dug up items.
Sodding properties over 4,000 square feet gets expensive. Many landscape designers now prefer hydroseeding for larger properties. You have to water more in the beginning, but what you save in labor and cost can be spent on proper site preparation.
When comparing hydroseeding estimates, please consider the following criteria. All bids are not equal. More is to be considered than just cost per square foot. Ask about:

  • the hydro mulch to be used
  • seed quality and fertilizer
  • if the soil to be hydroseeded is on a slope, then is a tackifying agent needed to prevent soil from washing away?
  • do they have experience working on residential lawns?
  • what do they recommend for weed control?
Yes because you can control exactly the amount of seed and type of mulch to be applied.
Use quality seed, fertilizer, the right mix in the tank, and irrigation.