What is a Lawn Tune-Up?
A lawn tune-up is combining aerating, overseeding and starter fertilizer.
- Promotes deep vigorous root growth.
- Provides Individual germinating chambers for new seedlings.
- Improves air to the roots and promotes deeper root growth
- Breaks up hard clay soil
- Saves on your watering bill
- Stimulates beneficial microorganisms
- Helps the seed germinate and become established
- Creates a lush, thick, healthy lawn
- Spring is a great time for overseeding.
- I use only the highest-quality Golf Course Fairway Grass Seed.
- Overseeding pays off with a thicker, more vibrant and healthy lawn.
- Excellent choice for rapid establishment, disease resistance and traffic tolerance.
- We use a special 60% slow release Starter.
- Nourishes and protects your new seedlings and provides excellent lawn color throughout the season.
- Promotes deep root growth with good color, while limiting turf growth.
- Will not stain cement as most fertilizers do.
- No herbicides, insecticides, or fungicides so it is not harmful to animals.
- Will give your lawn good color without making it grow too fast.
Benefits of a Lawn Tune-Up?
What is the best time to do a lawn tune-up? Spring and fall are typically the best time for the lawn tune-up, it will bounce your lawn back from winter and summer damage.
Introduces new grass seed that is disease and insect repellent.
Our Best Value!
- Lawn Aerating promotes deep root growth
Allows seed-to-soil contact
Breaks up heavy clay and gets the fertilizer to the root zone easier.
We use only the highest quality golf course seed grown specifically for Western Washington lawns. An investment in over-seeding pays off with a beautiful lawn.
- ?Starter Fertilizer
We use a starter fertilizer with 60% slow release or pay a little more ($20) and have 5-4-5 composted organic fertilizer with rock minerals.
It is a three step process involving: Deep core aeration to open the soil, 60% slow release starter fertilizer to broadcast nutrients and food, and spreading seed over the primed lawn.
The Lawn Tune-up is the most cost-effective and inexpensive preventative maintenance you can offer your lawn. It is commonly effective to repair winter or summer lawn damage, to keep your newly sodded lawn thick and healthy by promoting deeper root development, or to simply maintain the healthy lawn you may already have established.
Spring and fall are the best times for optimal seed growing temperatures (typically between 60-80 degrees). I recommend a Tune-up twice a year.
If you have large bare spots of soil or have already thatched your lawn, your grass will require extra seed not included in the standard Tune-Up price.
I suggest reading my detailed instructions on Your Newly Seeded Lawn.
New Lawn Care
The success of your new lawn is not entirely under your control, but there is much you can do to improve the final result. All grass seeds require a delicate balance of moisture, seed-to-soil contact, and a temperature range of 60-80 degrees Fahrenheit for the best germination results. Below is an outline of how to care for your new lawn in regard to these three important factors.
Important Factors for Optimal Lawn Growth
Depending on the weather, you will need to commit to consistent watering. Pay attention to your daily weather and water accordingly to keep the soil firm yet moist at all times. The first few days and weeks are critical to getting your lawn established. It’s important to water daily. You may need to sprinke your lawn lightly as much as 2-3 times per day if the weather is hot, dry or windy.
The purpose of the deep first watering is to push more seeds into the holes left in your lawn after lawn aeration. When the seeds are deeper in the soil, they have access to the nutrients needed to begin to sprout. Only the top layer of soil needs to be moistened. Try to avoid disturbing the seed so it can maintain good soil contact.
Soil temperatures should be in the correct range (60-80 degrees) for the type of grass. Germination requires a minimum temperature range of 50 degrees. Note: Soil temperatures are usually cooler than air temperature. Once germination begins, if the environment changes significantly (like being too hot and dry), the seed or sprout will die. This is why the time of year is so important for lawn care.
How Much To Water A New Lawn
You will water your new lawn for 30 minutes after seeds are planted. Each session after that should be 10 minutes. Water with a spray nozzle that is adjusted for a soft mist gentle spray or an oscillating sprinkler. A sprinkler can be used as a watering tool as well. For most sprinklers, you will want to water each location for about 20 minutes. Do not water to the point where there are puddles, as this may wash some seed away. It is imperative to not saturate the soil, so focus on frequent yet light watering. After grass sprouts, continue watering daily for 7-10 days. Once the lawn is established (meaning widespread grass heights of over 3-4”) you can just water as needed.
Phases of growing grass
1st Stage: Germinating Seed:
Grass seed germination is simply what takes place inside the seed to make it sprout when the seed absorbs enough moisture to start growing. The pre-sprout phase is most critical so you must maintain a strong commitment to watering new grass seed.
2nd Stage: Sprout:
After the seed germinates, you will have visible grass. Continue watering daily for 7-10 days during this stage. The tiny grass plants have small root systems at this time and may die if the top layer of soil dries out. Water makes up 70 to 80% of the weight of our lawn grasses and the clippings alone are nearly 90% water. Seeds will not all sprout at the same time. Seeds will be buried at different depths, which causes them to absorb water differently and dictates how much sunlight they will get. Many seed mixtures will have different characteristics affecting new grass growth and development. It is crucial to keep the surface level of soil constantly moist until all seeds have germinated.
3rd Stage: Establishment:
Once your seeds have germinated and become established, the root system will be deep and secure enough to be ready for mowing. Only mow your lawn after 21 days at heights of 3-4?. It is important to NOT spray weed control or chemicals for the first few months. Don’t forget to mark your calendar 6 weeks later for a fertilizer reminder!
Good luck with the success of your lawn!
When buying seed for your lawn, buy from a reputable and knowledgeable representative. Don’t just buy any brand. Seed distributors have to supply the big box stores where they market their lower quality seed. This is why I purchase my seed by the ton, from a seed broker I have known for over 10 years. My seed cannot be purchased at nurseries or box stores. I use only seed that local golf courses use on their fairways. A fairway grass is a Class C turf which most closely resembles your home lawn. A putting green is an example of a Class A turf. For home lawns I prefer to use a 70/30 seeding mix.
Fescue grass also requires more water longer than perennial rye grass in order to become established. You need to water a little longer than you think so the secondary grasses can become established. Also note that you don’t want to let the perennial rye grass grow above 5 inches tall before first cut or it will shade out your fescues.
- the color of the grass at maturity
- the fineness of the blade and uniformity
- how the grass will be maintained, such as cutting and fertilization
- disease and susceptibility to pests
- the hydro mulch to be used
- seed quality and fertilizer
- if the soil to be hydroseeded is on a slope, then is a tackifying agent needed to prevent soil from washing away?
- do they have experience working on residential lawns?
- what do they recommend for weed control?