Seattle Area Lawn Tune Ups

Home/Seattle Area Lawn Tune Ups
Seattle Area Lawn Tune Ups2017-08-19T16:25:27-07:00

What is a Lawn Tune-Up?

A lawn tune-up is combining aerating, overseeding and starter fertilizer.


  • Promotes deep vigorous root growth.
  • Provides Individual germinating chambers for new seedlings.
  • Improves air to the roots and promotes deeper root growth
  • Breaks up hard clay soil
  • Saves on your watering bill
  • Stimulates beneficial microorganisms
  • Helps the seed germinate and become established
  • Creates a lush, thick, healthy lawn


  • Spring is a great time for overseeding.
  • I use only the highest-quality Golf Course Fairway Grass Seed.
  • Overseeding pays off with a thicker, more vibrant and healthy lawn.
  • Excellent choice for rapid establishment, disease resistance and traffic tolerance.


  • We use a special 60% slow release Starter.
  • Nourishes and protects your new seedlings and provides excellent lawn color throughout the season.
  • Promotes deep root growth with good color, while limiting turf growth.
  • Will not stain cement as most fertilizers do.
  • No herbicides, insecticides, or fungicides so it is not harmful to animals.
  • Will give your lawn good color without making it grow too fast.

Benefits of a Lawn Tune-Up?

What is the best time to do a lawn tune-up? Spring and fall are typically the best time for the lawn tune-up, it will bounce your lawn back from winter and summer damage.
Introduces new grass seed that is disease and insect repellent.

Our Best Value!

  1. Lawn Aerating promotes deep root growth
    Allows seed-to-soil contact
    Breaks up heavy clay and gets the fertilizer to the root zone easier.
  2. Over-seeding
    We use only the highest quality golf course seed grown specifically for Western Washington lawns. An investment in over-seeding pays off with a beautiful lawn.
  3. ?Starter Fertilizer
    We use a starter fertilizer with 60% slow release or pay a little more ($20) and have 5-4-5 composted organic fertilizer with rock minerals.
Seattle Lawn TuneUp FAQ2017-03-04T17:51:33-08:00

It is a three step process involving: Deep core aeration to open the soil, 60% slow release starter fertilizer to broadcast nutrients and food, and spreading seed over the primed lawn.

No, to include thatching is a separate service

The Lawn Tune-up is the most cost-effective and inexpensive preventative maintenance you can offer your lawn. It is commonly effective to repair winter or summer lawn damage, to keep your newly sodded lawn thick and healthy by promoting deeper root development, or to simply maintain the healthy lawn you may already have established.

Spring and fall are the best times for optimal seed growing temperatures (typically between 60-80 degrees). I recommend a Tune-up twice a year.

If you have large bare spots of soil or have already thatched your lawn, your grass will require extra seed not included in the standard Tune-Up price.

I apply up to 10lbs of seed per 3,000 sqft.
Seattle Lawn Aerating FAQ2017-03-24T10:40:09-07:00
Aeration is the process of mechanically removing cores of turf to improve the flow of air, water and nutrients in dense, compacted soil.
Aerating will allow your grass to grow healthier, greener and thicker. It will also help with drainage and allow air and water to reach the roots of your lawn.
I use a core aerator that extracts plugs of soil from your lawn. The plugs can be up to 2-3/4 inches long, depending on how compact your soil is.
Spring and fall are generally the best times of year to aerate your lawn. These are the seasons when your lawn is actively growing and you can overseed immediately afterwards. Many people also aerate in July to prevent localized dry spots and improve irrigation.
By aerating late spring you can encourage the roots to grow deeper, keeping your lawn green longer.
Houses built in the last 20 years have heavier soil compaction because of bulldozers, backhoes and big lifts used in the construction process. Most newly-constructed properties have little or no soil preparation. In new construction, the lawn is graded (all soil scraped and taken away) then covered again with 1 or 2 inches of soil. If you live on a property like this, add compost annually and aerate your lawn twice a year, then rake fine compost into the aeration holes. Over time this will change your soil profile.
Because clay soil is a very fine particle with very small pore spaces, air and water cannot move well through soil, which encourages poor root growth.
Aerating produces holes that act as a seed bed which helps to shelter the seed and encourages their germination.
On lawns with compacted soils or under renovation, it is beneficial to aerate twice yearly. With sandy soil, once a year aerating is recommended.
No. If you have clay, sand and clay can turn your soil into a concrete substance. I suggest adding an organic material such as a native soil or fine compost.

My aerator is 26″ wide so as long as you have a 27″ of space, we will be able to carefully make it fit.

Worms. Worms come in and provide passage ways for air to enter the soil which helps develope good fungi.

Seattle Instructions For Newly Seeded Lawns FAQ2018-08-20T11:15:06-07:00

Print Friendly, PDF & Email

New Lawn Care

The success of your new lawn is not entirely under your control, but there is much you can do to improve the final result. All grass seeds require a delicate balance of moisture, seed-to-soil contact, and a temperature range of 60-80 degrees Fahrenheit for the best germination results. Below is an outline of how to care for your new lawn in regard to these three important factors.

Important Factors for Optimal Lawn Growth

  • Moisture

    Depending on the weather, you will need to commit to consistent watering. Pay attention to your daily weather and water accordingly to keep the soil firm yet moist at all times. The first few days and weeks are critical to getting your lawn established. It’s important to water daily. You may need to sprinke your lawn lightly as much as 2-3 times per day if the weather is hot, dry or windy.

  • Seed-To-Soil Contact

    The purpose of the deep first watering is to push more seeds into the holes left in your lawn after lawn aeration. When the seeds are deeper in the soil, they have access to the nutrients needed to begin to sprout. Only the top layer of soil needs to be moistened. Try to avoid disturbing the seed so it can maintain good soil contact.

  • Temperature

    Soil temperatures should be in the correct range (60-80 degrees) for the type of grass. Germination requires a minimum temperature range of 50 degrees. Note: Soil temperatures are usually cooler than air temperature. Once germination begins, if the environment changes significantly (like being too hot and dry), the seed or sprout will die. This is why the time of year is so important for lawn care.

How Much To Water A New Lawn

You will water your new lawn for 30 minutes after seeds are planted. Each session after that should be 10 minutes. Water with a spray nozzle that is adjusted for a soft mist gentle spray or an oscillating sprinkler. A sprinkler can be used as a watering tool as well. For most sprinklers, you will want to water each location for about 20 minutes. Do not water to the point where there are puddles, as this may wash some seed away. It is imperative to not saturate the soil, so focus on frequent yet light watering. After grass sprouts, continue watering daily for 7-10 days. Once the lawn is established (meaning widespread grass heights of over 3-4”) you can just water as needed.

Phases of growing grass

  • 1st Stage: Germinating Seed:

    Grass seed germination is simply what takes place inside the seed to make it sprout when the seed absorbs enough moisture to start growing. The pre-sprout phase is most critical so you must maintain a strong commitment to watering new grass seed.

  • 2nd Stage: Sprout:

    After the seed germinates, you will have visible grass. Continue watering daily for 7-10 days during this stage. The tiny grass plants have small root systems at this time and may die if the top layer of soil dries out. Water makes up 70 to 80% of the weight of our lawn grasses and the clippings alone are nearly 90% water. Seeds will not all sprout at the same time. Seeds will be buried at different depths, which causes them to absorb water differently and dictates how much sunlight they will get. Many seed mixtures will have different characteristics affecting new grass growth and development. It is crucial to keep the surface level of soil constantly moist until all seeds have germinated.

  • 3rd Stage: Establishment:

    Once your seeds have germinated and become established, the root system will be deep and secure enough to be ready for mowing. Only mow your lawn after 21 days at heights of 3-4?. It is important to NOT spray weed control or chemicals for the first few months. Don’t forget to mark your calendar 6 weeks later for a fertilizer reminder!

Good luck with the success of your lawn!

Seattle Lawn Seeding FAQ2016-11-06T11:23:03-08:00
Seeding introduces new, healthier, more vibrant grass seedlings to your existing lawn. The healthier your lawn, the more beautiful and more resistant it will be to disease and pests. Best of all, the overall vigor and health of your lawn enhances the value of your property.

When buying seed for your lawn, buy from a reputable and knowledgeable representative. Don’t just buy any brand. Seed distributors have to supply the big box stores where they market their lower quality seed. This is why I purchase my seed by the ton, from a seed broker I have known for over 10 years. My seed cannot be purchased at nurseries or box stores. I use only seed that local golf courses use on their fairways. A fairway grass is a Class C turf which most closely resembles your home lawn. A putting green is an example of a Class A turf. For home lawns I prefer to use a 70/30 seeding mix.

Fescue grass also requires more water longer than perennial rye grass in order to become established. You need to water a little longer than you think so the secondary grasses can become established. Also note that you don’t want to let the perennial rye grass grow above 5 inches tall before first cut or it will shade out your fescues.

A blend is a mixture of several different varieties of the same seed. An example would be a three-way perennial rye grass, similar in concept to like-blended whiskies.
Different types of seed are mixed together, such as perennial rye grass and fescue. This provides the advantage of mixing sun and shade grasses and disease with pest resistance.
Many things are considered when seed is mixed or blended:

  • the color of the grass at maturity
  • the fineness of the blade and uniformity
  • how the grass will be maintained, such as cutting and fertilization
  • disease and susceptibility to pests
Cheap seed is no bargain. It quite often contains other non-desirable grasses by accident or on purpose. At the box stores I now see a change in marketing techniques by reputable seed producers. They market seed with their nationally-known name but it is aimed at the cheapest purchaser. These seeds are marketed using descriptions like “contractors’ mix” or “extremely fast establishing” or “quick green”. The frugal shopper buys this seed, gets it home, applies it, and it looks great. But when the seed finally matures, it’s usually wide-bladed and ugly and “goes to seed” all the time. The frugal shopper then sees the ugly lawn and by then has forgotten what he put on last year, so goes back and buys a cheap, low-quality product again.
Higher quality seed for Western Washington is grown in Oregon in the Willamette Valley. This seed is usually endophyte-enhanced with a fungus that discourages some chewing insect pests and increases your lawn’s stress resistance. Seed is professionally mixed or blended for a reason. If only one super seed was used and it became susceptible to a pest or disease, you would lose your whole lawn. Most seed is purchased at the big box stores and based on one criterion: price. Most homeowners do not take purity and quality into consideration.
Many homeowners decide to cover their seed with peat moss. If you use peat moss, I strongly recommend renting a peat moss roller from a rental yard. Not to be confused with a drum you put water in for site compaction, a peat moss roller is light and easy to transport. Peat moss roller rental is about $15 a day. The roller itself is made of expanded diamond-cut metal which has many openings to equally distribute the peat moss. The quality of this is unattainable by hand spreading. Do not put peat moss on too thick or it will interlock and prevent the seed from growing through it.
Failure can be caused by: poor germinating temperatures, a weed and feed or chemical being applied either before or after seeding, lack of watering, overwatering, birds and other animals feeding on the seeds, contaminated soil, chemicals, diesel fuel and/or paint thinners.
Water your lawn daily, lightly and frequently, depending on the temperature. If possible, mow your lawn first before aeration.
Kentucky Bluegrass does not live longer than one year here in Western Washington. Winters are not cold enough for the grass to go into dormancy; disease will also kill it.
No. Another mistake many people make is to rototill an existing lawn and then try to grade it. Rototilling creates a huge, tangled mess of dirt clods and grass. Then when you rototill your new topsoil into the mess that’s left, it takes hours to get it graded and there’s always a chunk of your old lawn on top. In addition, if you do get it graded, that old sod will be decomposing and your newly established yard will end up with many bumps and dips. Use a sod cutter first, then the rototiller. With rototilling you never know what a previous owner has buried, so make a place to put unwanted dug up items.
Sodding properties over 4,000 square feet gets expensive. Many landscape designers now prefer hydroseeding for larger properties. You have to water more in the beginning, but what you save in labor and cost can be spent on proper site preparation.
When comparing hydroseeding estimates, please consider the following criteria. All bids are not equal. More is to be considered than just cost per square foot. Ask about:

  • the hydro mulch to be used
  • seed quality and fertilizer
  • if the soil to be hydroseeded is on a slope, then is a tackifying agent needed to prevent soil from washing away?
  • do they have experience working on residential lawns?
  • what do they recommend for weed control?
Yes because you can control exactly the amount of seed and type of mulch to be applied.